LeClaire Institute

Module 3 · Processing

Processing is everything that happens to food between the farm and your plate. This lesson follows processing aids that never reach the label; the compounds that form when food is browned, grilled, smoked or cured (acrylamide, AGEs, HCAs, PAHs and nitrosamines); and methods that change the food itself: fermenting, pasteurizing, hydrogenating, refining and nixtamalizing. Each molecule is shown in ball-and-stick form with what it does, the risks, and where it is found. The figure is on the left and the lesson script on the right; the quiz is at the end.

Previous lesson: Module 3 · Antinutrients

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Figure 1

The Processing Family Tree

What happens to food between farm and plate, in three groups.

What the tree shows
Three kinds of changeAlmost every food is processed somehow: washed, cut, heated, fermented, pressed or milled. This lesson follows three kinds of change: helpers used along the way that never reach the label, new compounds that form when food is heated hard, and methods that change the food itself.
Good, bad and bothProcessing is not good or bad as a whole. Pasteurizing and fermenting make food safer; nixtamalizing makes corn more nutritious; charring and partial hydrogenation make compounds worth limiting; refining trades nutrients for shelf life and texture.
Mostly not on the labelProcessing aids and the compounds that form during cooking are not listed as ingredients. A few methods show up in the wording, such as “partially hydrogenated”, “enriched”, “pasteurized”, “cured” or “nixtamalized corn”.
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Figure 2

Processing Aids

Helpers like hexane that never reach the label.

A processing aid

Hexane, C₆H₁₄

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  1. 1Six carbons in a row and nothing but hydrogens around them: no oxygen, so it mixes with oil, not water.

What it is: A petroleum solvent. Crushed soybeans, canola, corn or sunflower seeds are washed with hexane, which dissolves the oil out; the hexane is then boiled off and recycled.

In your body: Hexane is not a nutrient and has no role in the body. Breathing high levels for long periods at work can damage nerves, which is why it is a workplace hazard; the traces left in refined oil are very small.

Too much: The EU caps hexane residue in edible fats and oils at 1 mg per kg. If you would rather avoid it, oils labeled expeller-pressed, cold-pressed or USDA organic are pressed without hexane.

Found in: Used to make most soybean, canola, corn, cottonseed and sunflower oil, and soy protein ingredients. It is not listed on the label because it is a processing aid.

Common processing aids
Processing aidWhat it doesEnds up in the food?
Hexanedissolves oil out of seedsevaporated off; tiny traces
Enzymes such as pectinaseclear fruit juice; break down starch in baking and brewinginactivated by heat or filtered out
Fining agents (gelatin, bentonite clay)pull haze out of wine, beer and juicesettle out and are removed
Anti-foaming agentsstop foam in fryers and tankstrace amounts
Carryover additivesa preservative in an ingredient (say, the dried fruit in a cereal) that does nothing in the final foodsmall amounts
Why they are not listed
The labeling exemptionUS rules (21 CFR 101.100) and EU rules (Regulation 1169/2011) let manufacturers leave off processing aids and carryover additives that are removed, inactive, or present only at insignificant levels with no effect in the finished food.
Allergens are the exceptionIf a processing aid comes from a major allergen, such as a fining agent made from fish or milk, it must still be declared in both the US and the EU.

carbon hydrogen · every molecule on this page is drawn at the same scale with every hydrogen shown · tap one to enlarge it

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Figure 3

Browning: Acrylamide and AGEs

What forms when sugars meet amino acids in dry heat.

Acrylamide

From asparagine to acrylamide

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AsparagineC₄H₈N₂O₃

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AcrylamideC₃H₅NO

  1. 1Asparagine is an amino acid that potatoes and grains carry in large amounts. This end is the amide group…
  2. 2…and this is the amino-acid end. Heated above about 120°C with a sugar such as glucose, it loses this end as carbon dioxide and ammonia…
  3. 3…leaving a small molecule with a reactive double bond…
  4. 4…and the same amide group: acrylamide.

What it is: A small molecule that forms when starchy foods are fried, baked, roasted or toasted at high heat and low moisture. It is part of the Maillard reaction, the browning that gives crusts, chips and coffee their color and flavor. Swedish scientists found it in food in 2002.

In your body: The body turns acrylamide into glycidamide, which can damage DNA. It causes cancer in lab animals at high doses, and IARC classifies it as probably carcinogenic to humans (Group 2A). Studies in people have not shown a clear link at dietary levels, but regulators advise keeping intake as low as reasonably possible.

Too much: Very high exposure at work damages nerves. In the diet, the practical advice from the US FDA and others is to fry, bake and toast to a golden yellow rather than dark brown.

Found in: French fries, potato chips, crackers, cookies, toast, breakfast cereals, roasted coffee. Boiled and steamed foods have essentially none, and meat and dairy form little.

AGEs

AGEs: a sugar sticks to a protein

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LysineC₆H₁₄N₂O₂

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CMLC₈H₁₆N₂O₄

  1. 5Lysine’s side chain ends in a free NH₂ group, which reacts readily with sugars…
  2. 6…and after several steps it can carry this two-carbon acid group. The result, carboxymethyl-lysine (CML), is the most-measured AGE.

What it is: Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) are proteins or fats that have been permanently altered by sugars. They form in food during browning, and also slowly inside the body, faster when blood sugar is high.

In your body: AGEs build up in tissues with age and in diabetes, where they stiffen collagen and promote inflammation. How much the AGEs in food add to this is still debated; some trials of low-AGE diets show small improvements, but the evidence is not settled.

Too much: No official limit exists. Moist cooking (stewing, poaching, steaming) and acidic marinades make far fewer AGEs than dry high heat.

Found in: Highest in meat that is grilled, broiled, roasted or fried, especially fatty or processed meat; also browned cheeses, butter, and crisp baked snacks. Vegetables, fruit, grains and milk are low.

carbon hydrogen oxygen nitrogen · every molecule on this page is drawn at the same scale with every hydrogen shown · tap one to enlarge it

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Figure 4

Grilling and Smoking: HCAs and PAHs

Compounds made in charred meat and smoke.

HCAs

PhIP, a heterocyclic amine (HCA)

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  1. 1Rings that contain nitrogen, with an amino group: the “heterocyclic amine”. They form from creatine, amino acids and sugar in muscle meat…
  2. 2…when it is cooked very hot. PhIP is the HCA found in the largest amounts in cooked meat.

What it is: HCAs form when creatine (found in muscle), amino acids and sugars react at high temperature, mainly on the surface of meat, poultry and fish that is pan-fried or grilled well done.

In your body: Enzymes in the liver activate HCAs into forms that damage DNA. They cause cancer in animals at high doses; IARC lists PhIP as possibly carcinogenic to humans (Group 2B). Studies in people link eating a lot of well-done meat to some cancers, but cannot separate HCAs from other factors.

Too much: No set limit. The US National Cancer Institute suggests avoiding direct flame and long cooking at very high heat, turning meat often, and cutting off charred parts.

Found in: Well-done, pan-fried, grilled or barbecued beef, pork, chicken and fish, and gravy made from their drippings. Plant foods form essentially none.

PAHs

Benzo[a]pyrene, a polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAH)

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  1. 3Five benzene rings fused into one flat sheet, with only carbon and hydrogen. Flat sheets like this can slip between the layers of DNA.

What it is: PAHs form when fat and juices drip onto flames or coals and burn; the smoke rises and coats the food. They also come from smoking food and from burning wood, coal, tobacco and fuel.

In your body: Like HCAs, PAHs are activated by liver enzymes into forms that bind DNA. Benzo[a]pyrene is classified by IARC as carcinogenic to humans (Group 1); the EU sets maximum levels for it in smoked meat, smoked fish, oils and baby foods.

Too much: Reduce it by trimming fat, avoiding flare-ups, not letting food touch flames, and scraping off charred bits.

Found in: Charcoal-grilled and barbecued meat, traditionally smoked meat and fish, and some smoke-dried foods. Smoking cigarettes is a far larger source than food.

Smoking

Guaiacol: the taste of smoke

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  1. 4A methoxy group (oxygen plus methyl)…
  2. 5…next to an OH on a benzene ring. Guaiacol forms when the lignin in wood burns, and is a main source of smoky aroma.

What it is: Smoking dries food, adds flavor, and deposits compounds such as guaiacol and other phenols that slow the growth of bacteria and the spoiling of fat.

In your body: Guaiacol itself is a flavor, not a concern at food levels. The concern with smoking is the PAHs that come with the smoke.

Found in: Smoked meats, fish, cheese and paprika, whisky, coffee, and liquid smoke, which is filtered smoke condensate with most PAHs removed.

carbon hydrogen oxygen nitrogen · every molecule on this page is drawn at the same scale with every hydrogen shown · tap one to enlarge it

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Figure 5

Curing and Nitrosamines

How curing salt can form nitrosamines, and how vitamin C stops it.

Nitrosamines

Nitrite plus an amine makes a nitrosamine

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NitriteNO₂⁻

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DimethylamineC₂H₇N

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NDMAC₂H₆N₂O

  1. 1Nitrite is the curing salt: it keeps cured meat pink, adds the cured flavor and stops the bacterium that causes botulism (see Additives).
  2. 2Amines like this one come from the breakdown of protein, and are plentiful in meat and fish.
  3. 3In high heat or stomach acid, nitrite puts an N=O group on the amine’s nitrogen: a nitrosamine. NDMA is the most common one.

What it is: Nitrosamines are compounds with an N–N=O group. They form when nitrite meets amines, especially with frying heat or in the acid of the stomach.

In your body: Liver enzymes activate nitrosamines into forms that damage DNA, and they cause cancer in many animal species. IARC classifies NDMA as probably carcinogenic to humans (Group 2A). Nitrosamines are thought to be one reason IARC lists processed meat as carcinogenic to humans (Group 1), mainly for colorectal cancer.

Too much: The main advice is to eat processed meat sparingly. Bacon fried crisp forms the most; cooking it more gently and avoiding burnt bits helps.

Found in: Fried cured bacon, cured and smoked meats and fish, some cheeses and beers (much lower now than in the past), and tobacco smoke.

How curing is made safer
Vitamin C blocks the reactionAscorbate and its mirror form erythorbate react with nitrite first, turning it into nitric oxide rather than letting it reach the amine. US rules for bacon limit the nitrite added and require ascorbate or erythorbate with it.
“Uncured” still has nitriteMeat labeled “uncured” or “no nitrites added” is usually cured with celery powder or juice, which is naturally rich in nitrate that bacteria turn into nitrite. The chemistry ends up the same.
Vegetables are differentMost nitrate in the diet comes from vegetables such as spinach, beets and lettuce, which also bring vitamin C and polyphenols and are linked to lower, not higher, cancer risk.

carbon hydrogen nitrogen oxygen · every molecule on this page is drawn at the same scale with every hydrogen shown · tap one to enlarge it

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Figure 6

Fermentation and Pasteurization

Microbes that preserve food, and heat that makes it safe.

Fermentation

What microbes make

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Lactic acidC₃H₆O₃

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EthanolC₂H₆O

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Carbon dioxideCO₂

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Acetic acidC₂H₄O₂

  1. 1Lactic acid bacteria turn sugar into lactic acid, which sours and thickens milk into yogurt and preserves cabbage as sauerkraut and kimchi.
  2. 2Yeast turns sugar into ethanol…
  3. 3…and carbon dioxide. In bread the gas raises the dough and the alcohol bakes off; in beer and wine both stay.
  4. 4Acetobacter bacteria then turn ethanol into acetic acid: vinegar.

What it is: Fermentation is using microbes to change food. They eat sugars and leave behind acids, alcohol and gas, plus flavor compounds.

In your body: The acid keeps harmful bacteria from growing, which is how fermentation preserved food long before refrigerators. It can also predigest food: yogurt has less lactose than milk, and sourdough has less phytate (see Antinutrients). Foods with live cultures, like yogurt and kefir, add living bacteria; most baked, canned or pasteurized-after-fermenting foods do not.

Too much: Alcohol is the one fermentation product to limit. Very salty ferments such as soy sauce and some pickles add a lot of sodium.

Found in: Yogurt, kefir, cheese, sauerkraut, kimchi, miso, tempeh, soy sauce, sourdough and all yeast bread, vinegar, beer, wine, cocoa and coffee (both fermented during processing).

Pasteurization
MethodTemperature and timeUsed for
Low-temperature, long time (vat)63°C (145°F) for 30 minutessmall dairies
High-temperature, short time (HTST)72°C (161°F) for 15 secondsmost milk and juice
Ultra-high temperature (UHT)about 135–150°C for a few secondsshelf-stable milk and cartons; sealed sterile
Why pasteurize
Kills germs, keeps nutrientsHeating just enough kills disease-causing bacteria such as Listeria, Salmonella, E. coli and Campylobacter while barely changing protein, calcium or flavor. Small losses of heat-sensitive vitamins such as vitamin C and some B vitamins are minor in milk.
Raw milkUS health agencies warn that raw milk and raw-milk products can carry these germs and are riskier for children, pregnant women, older adults and people with weak immune systems.

carbon hydrogen oxygen · every molecule on this page is drawn at the same scale with every hydrogen shown · tap one to enlarge it

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Figure 7

Hydrogenation and Refining

Firming oils, and stripping grains and oils down.

Hydrogenation

Adding hydrogen to a double bond

HydrogenH₂

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cis double bondC₄H₈

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Fully hydrogenatedC₄H₁₀

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Partial: transC₄H₈

  1. 1Hydrogen gas (first cell) is bubbled through hot oil with a nickel catalyst. Natural unsaturated fats have cis double bonds, which kink the chain. A four-carbon piece stands in for a whole fatty acid here…
  2. 2…and adding both hydrogens turns the double bond into a single one: a saturated chain, straight and solid.
  3. 3Stop partway and some double bonds just flip to trans instead: that is trans fat (see Fats, Figure 7).

What it is: Hydrogenation adds hydrogen to the double bonds of a liquid oil so it becomes firmer, more stable and slower to go rancid. Partial hydrogenation made margarine, shortening and frying fats from the 1950s on.

In your body: Partial hydrogenation forms industrial trans fat, which raises LDL cholesterol and lowers HDL, raising the risk of heart disease more than any other fat (see Fats, Figure 7).

Too much: In 2015 the US FDA ruled that partially hydrogenated oils are no longer generally recognized as safe, and they were removed from the US food supply over the following years. Fully hydrogenated oil has almost no trans fat; it is saturated fat, often blended with liquid oils.

Found in: On older or imported labels: “partially hydrogenated soybean oil” in shortening, stick margarine, frosting, microwave popcorn and fried snacks. Small amounts of natural trans fat occur in dairy and beef.

Refining grain
Whole grainRefined (white)Enriched refined
Parts keptbran, germ and endospermendosperm onlyendosperm only
Fiberhighlowlow (not added back)
B vitamins and ironnatural amountsmostly lostthiamin, riboflavin, niacin, folic acid and iron added back
Magnesium, zinc, vitamin E, B6natural amountsmostly lostnot added back
Shelf lifeshorter (oily germ)longlong
Refining oil
Refined, bleached, deodorizedAfter pressing or hexane extraction, most oils are degummed, neutralized, bleached with clay and deodorized with steam. The result is clear, mild and stable for frying, but loses much of its vitamin E, polyphenols and flavor. Extra-virgin olive oil and cold-pressed oils skip these steps.

carbon hydrogen · every molecule on this page is drawn at the same scale with every hydrogen shown · tap one to enlarge it

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Figure 8

Nixtamalization

The lime soak that makes corn more nutritious.

Nixtamalization

Lime, and the vitamin it frees

Calcium ionCa²⁺

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HydroxideOH⁻

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NiacinC₆H₅NO₂

  1. 1Slaked lime, calcium hydroxide, breaks into calcium ions and hydroxide in water, making it strongly alkaline.
  2. 2In raw corn, niacin’s acid group is tied to other molecules, so the body cannot absorb it…
  3. 3…the alkaline soak cuts it free. Niacin is vitamin B3 (see Water-Soluble Vitamins).

What it is: Nixtamalization is cooking and soaking dried corn in water with lime (calcium hydroxide), then rinsing it and grinding it into masa. It was developed in Mesoamerica thousands of years ago.

In your body: It frees bound niacin, loosens the hull, adds calcium, improves the balance of available amino acids, lowers some mold toxins, and lets the dough hold together for tortillas.

Too little: Where corn became a staple without nixtamalization, as in parts of Europe and the US South in the 1700s to early 1900s, pellagra was common: the disease of niacin deficiency, with dermatitis, diarrhea and dementia.

Found in: Corn tortillas, tamales, tortilla chips, pozole and hominy, and masa harina; look for “corn treated with lime” or “nixtamalized corn” on the label. Cornmeal, grits and polenta usually are not nixtamalized.

From dried corn to tortilla
  1. Cookdried corn simmers in water with lime
  2. Steepit soaks overnight; the hull loosens and niacin is freed
  3. Rinsethe loose hulls and extra lime wash away
  4. Grindthe wet kernels become masa dough
  5. Shape and cookpressed into tortillas or tamales

calcium carbon hydrogen oxygen nitrogen · every molecule and ion on this page is drawn at the same scale with every hydrogen shown · tap one to enlarge it

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Figure 9

Where processed foods act in the body

Tap a number on the cell to see what that part does; the list below it gives every other place in the body.

What cooking and processing make or change in food reaches the gut, liver and blood vessels.

Inside a cell

A typical animal cell, not to scale. Real cells hold thousands of ribosomes and hundreds of mitochondria.

Cooking and processing change molecules that later reach your cells.

  1. AGEs (browning products) can bind the RAGE receptor and trigger inflammation signals.
  2. Some cooking byproducts, such as heterocyclic amines from charred meat, become DNA-damaging once liver enzymes activate them.
  3. Liver enzymes activate or break down cooking byproducts such as acrylamide and heterocyclic amines.
  4. Oxidized fats from reused frying oil add to oxidant load that the cell's antioxidant enzymes must clear.
  5. Refined starches are digested fast, so more glucose arrives at once and is stored as glycogen or fat.
  6. Nutrients lost in processing, such as B vitamins from refined grains, are the ones these energy machines need; fortification adds some back.

Everywhere else in the body

Each item, the places outside the cell where it is found or used, and what it does there.

Cooking in general

  • Stomach and small intestine. Cooked starch and protein are digested faster; heat also kills germs.

Acrylamide

  • Small intestine. Absorbs it.
  • Liver. Turns some into glycidamide, which can damage DNA, and clears the rest with glutathione.
  • Blood. Binds hemoglobin, which is how exposure is measured.
  • Nerves. High exposure at work damages nerves.
  • Placenta and breast milk. Pass small amounts.

AGEs (browning products)

  • Small intestine. Absorbs a share of those in food.
  • Blood vessels. Link collagen fibers so vessels stiffen, and trigger inflammation through the RAGE receptor.
  • Kidneys. Clear AGEs; they build up in kidney disease.
  • Eye lens and skin. Build up with age in long-lived proteins.
  • Blood. The body makes its own when sugar is high; HbA1c, the diabetes test, measures an early step of the same reaction.

HCAs and PAHs (charring and smoke)

  • Liver. Activates them, and some products can damage DNA.
  • Colon, prostate and breast. Where HCA damage has been studied in animals.
  • Lungs. PAHs from smoke reach them directly.

Nitrite and nitrosamines

  • Stomach. Nitrite and amines can form nitrosamines in its acid.
  • Liver. Activates nitrosamines.
  • Large intestine. Eating a lot of processed meat is linked to colon cancer.

Trans fats

  • Blood. Raise LDL and lower HDL cholesterol.
  • Artery walls and heart. Raise the risk of plaque and heart disease.

Fermentation and pasteurization

  • Large intestine. Live cultures from yogurt and other fermented foods meet the gut bacteria.
  • Small intestine. Yogurt bacteria break down part of the lactose.
  • Whole body. Pasteurization kills germs such as Listeria and Salmonella.

Refining, fortification and nixtamalization

  • Skin, gut and brain. Nixtamalized corn frees niacin, preventing pellagra.
  • Bones. Lime-treated corn adds calcium.
  • Bone marrow and embryo. Fortified flour adds iron for red blood cells and folic acid for the neural tube.
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Figure 10

Putting It All Together

The whole lesson in one table, plus a few extras.

Processing at a glance
ProcessWhat it doesWhat forms or changesMain foodsWorth doing
Processing aidshelp make the food, then are removedtiny traces; not labeledvegetable oils, juice, winechoose expeller-pressed oil if you prefer
Browning (dry heat)Maillard reaction of sugar with amino acidsacrylamide, AGEs, flavor and colorfries, chips, toast, coffee, seared meatcook to golden, not dark brown
Grilling, smokingburns fat and drips; smoke coats foodHCAs, PAHs, smoky flavorcharred meat and fish, smoked foodsavoid flare-ups; trim char
Curingnitrite preserves and colors meatnitrosamines when fried hotbacon, ham, hot dogs, salamieat processed meat sparingly
Fermentingmicrobes turn sugar into acid, alcohol, gaslactic acid, ethanol, CO₂, vinegaryogurt, sauerkraut, bread, winea useful way to preserve and digest
Pasteurizingbrief heat kills germsfew changes to nutrientsmilk, juice, eggschoose pasteurized dairy
Partial hydrogenationadds hydrogen to oiltrans fatold shortening and margarineavoid; banned in the US
Refiningremoves bran, germ or impuritiesloses fiber, vitamins, mineralswhite flour, white rice, refined oilschoose whole grains often
Nixtamalizingalkaline lime cook of cornfrees niacin; adds calciumtortillas, hominy, masaa traditional gain
Worth knowing

Ultra-processed food

A popular classification called NOVA groups foods by how much they are processed. Diets high in ultra-processed foods, made mostly from refined ingredients and additives, are linked in many studies to obesity and chronic disease, though researchers still debate which features are responsible.

Frying oil

Oil reused many times for deep-frying breaks down into polar compounds and aldehydes; restaurants are told to change it when it darkens, smokes or foams.

Microwaving and pressure-cooking

Fast, moist methods often keep more water-soluble vitamins than long boiling, and form few of the heat compounds in this lesson.

General education, not medical advice. Facts follow mainstream sources (US FDA and USDA, EU regulations, IARC, US National Cancer Institute, NIH Office of Dietary Supplements, standard food-science texts).

Quiz

Tap a question to see the answer

1. What is a processing aid, and why is it usually not on the label?

A substance used during manufacturing that is removed or has no function in the finished food; US and EU rules exempt it, unless it comes from a major allergen (Figure 2).

2. What is hexane used for?

Dissolving oil out of crushed seeds such as soybeans and canola; it is then evaporated off (Figure 2).

3. Which two things react to form acrylamide?

The amino acid asparagine and a sugar, heated above about 120°C (Figure 3).

4. How can you form less acrylamide when making fries or toast?

Cook to golden yellow rather than dark brown (Figure 3).

5. What is an AGE?

A protein or fat permanently altered by a sugar, such as carboxymethyl-lysine; they form in browned food and in the body (Figure 3).

6. Where do HCAs and PAHs come from?

HCAs form in muscle meat cooked very hot; PAHs form when fat drips on flames and the smoke coats the food (Figure 4).

7. What gives smoked foods their smoky aroma?

Phenols such as guaiacol, made when wood lignin burns (Figure 4).

8. What does nitrite react with to form a nitrosamine?

An amine from protein breakdown, especially in frying heat or stomach acid (Figure 5).

9. Why is ascorbate or erythorbate added to cured bacon?

It reacts with nitrite first and blocks nitrosamine formation (Figure 5).

10. What do lactic acid bacteria and yeast each make from sugar?

Lactic acid bacteria make lactic acid; yeast makes ethanol and carbon dioxide (Figure 6).

11. What does partial hydrogenation create that full hydrogenation does not?

Trans fat, when some double bonds flip from cis to trans instead of being filled (Figure 7).

12. Why did pellagra appear where corn was eaten without nixtamalization?

Corn’s niacin is bound and cannot be absorbed unless the corn is cooked with lime (Figure 8).

Next lesson: Module 3 · Bioactives →